HOMEClassification of Fresh water Pearls Pearl characteristics The value of a pearl is determined by its Luster, Surface, Shape, color and Size. Lustre Lustre is the most important factor in choosing pearls. The inner glow of the pearl combined with the surface brilliance defines lustre. The higher the lustre, the thicker the nacre or secretion from the oyster and the stronger the glow. Lower quality cultured pearls appear too white, dull or chalky. Surface The smoothness of the pearl's surface, from clean to heavily blemished, is the next consideration. Cracks or breaks in the nacre are considered damage. Because pearls are grown in an oyster and are organic gems they are almost never flawless. The gem-quality pearl may have minute blemishes when examined very closely, but they are not noticeable at arm's length. Shape Similarly, it is very rare to find a perfectly round pearl. The rounder the pearl, however, the more valuable it is. Slightly off-round, semi-baroque and baroque pearls are not as valuable as perfectly round pearls, however, they can be lustrous and appealing and have a natural beauty and value of their own. Color Cultured pearls range in color from white to black with various multi-colored overtones. The color of the pearl is really the wearer's preference. Size Cultured pearls are measured in millimeters. All other factors being equal, the larger the pearl the rarer and more valuable it is. Pearl Grading (Freshwater, Tahitian, & Akoya Pearls) Pearl Grading System Pearl grading is very similar to the 4C's of diamond grading in that it takes into consideration several categories of qualitative comparisons. The pearl grading system consists of five main parts. They are: Luster Shape Color Surface Size Although size will certainly play an important roll in evaluating the monetary value of a pearl, luster, shape, color, and surface quality are of primary importance. Each of these five steps is explained in detail in the following text. Unfortunately, the pearl industry as a whole has not adopted a universally used standard grading system. Instead, the specific grading system used often depends upon the specific jeweler or pearl distributor. Photo Attribution - Unknown/Public Domain Two major grading systems are in fairly widespread use: the 'AAA-A Grading System' and the 'A-D Grading System' - also called the Tahitian grading system. These are the most universally accepted standardized systems, and are used by nearly all reputable retail and wholesale pearl dealers. The AAA-A Pearl Grading System This system grades pearls on a scale from AAA to A, with AAA being the highest grade, this grading scale is common to freshwater and akoya pearls only, but is accepted by many South Sea and Tahitian pearl dealers. The AAA to A grades is as follows: AAA : Virtually flawless pearl. Surface luster is very high, and 95% of surface will be free from any defect. AA : The surface will have a very high luster, and at least 75% of the surface will be free from any type of defect. A : The lowest jewelry-grade pearl, with low surface luster and/or more than 25% of the surface showing defects. The A-D Pearl Grading System This grading system grades pearls on a scale from A to D, with A being the highest grade. This system is used in French Polynesia to grade Tahitian pearls, and South Sea pearls only. This is why it is referred to as the "Tahitian system." While this system is standard in producing countries, other markets will use the AAA-A System. A : Highest-quality pearl, very high luster and only minor imperfections over less than 10% of its surface. B : High or medium luster. Surface may have some visible imperfections over no more than 30% of its surface area. C : Medium luster with surface defects over not more than 60% of the surface area. D : May have many slight defects over 60% of surface or deep defects over no more than 60% of surface. Pearls of the "D" variety may have a combination of minor and deep defects over no more than 60% of its surface. In this grade of pearl, the luster is irrelevant. Even the most lustrous pearls will be graded D if their surface areas is blemished to this extent. Pearls below D grade are considered not acceptable for use in jewelry. Both of these grading systems focus primarily on the luster and surface quality of the pearl to determine its grade. There are however, other factors that contribute to the quality and value of any pearl.